Weingut Egon Müller-Scharzhofberger
These are my notes from many sources, but Fiona Morrison MW from her book "10 Great Families"- collection of Academie du vin Library is my main source.
As Rieslings from Germany have a wide range of classification and sweetness level, I will need to write about them in many different posts. The wines from Germany, especially the whites are high demanded wine within the fine wine industry (collectors, high-end restaurants, auctions), but I am under the impression that the dry wines Kabinett, the affordable ones for the general consumer are yet to be discovered and the bloom is nearing, but not quite there yet.
Egon Müller indeed is an old school oenologist. His website as you type www.scharzhof.de a beautiful and nostalgic photograph of Egon pops up, but doesn't go any further, so you will either need to invest in books (please see my sources at the end of this page) or surf through the internet.
He is also the solely owner of the Weingut, but he is already thinking about passing the inheritance to his son Egon, who is also a lover of nature. He takes care of the bees.
The surface of the winery is small 8,5 ha. and his production yields are very low, therefore his wines will be always very expensive. Some years he can produce just 19hl/ha.
The soil is very fertile, high in minerals and in organic matters that are created by the binding of nitrogen into the soil, due to straw decomposition. Slate makes the greatest grapes.
His best plots are Scharzhofberger and Wiltinger Braune Kupp. The legendary years were 1970-1971-1975-1976. The cooler continental climate around the river Saar (Braune Kupp around the outside of the amphitheater form of the outside Saar river and Scharzhofberger, east from Wiltingen, still by the river), both have the best location for wine growing and wine making. "The star of Saar is the famous vineyard Scharzhofberg, a south-facing site that is in the hands of Egon Müller (IV is in charge today).
Finally, if I can describe super hero Egon, by hiding his emotions very well to the public, he admits he once cried out loud with his vintage 2006. It was perfect from the beginning, the grapes were fully ripe and ready to be harvested, when one day the hail with thunderstorms destroyed the entire grapes. He is also well known that he can "gamble" perfect harvesting period, he decides when to harvest and is always right. He can easily sell a bottle for 6,000 Euros.
Until I can visit the vineyards in Germany, I am sitting at my desk and writing about them.
10 Great Wine Families, Fiona Morrison MW-Académie du Vin Library collection.
The World Atlas of Wine, Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson.
The Perfect Wine Cellar, Chiara Giannotti.
Wine searcher www.wine-searcher.com
Author: Susana Kawai @ www.foodwithsusi.com
Instagram: wine_with_susi and food_with_susi