Pinot Noir - Weingut Holger Koch


Impressive with lifted aromas of wild strawberry and lychees, a touch of mushrooms and a delicate hint of smokiness. Extremely delicate and juicy with fine tannin, it drinks like a young Burgundy with some spiciness and a vibrant minerality. -The Good Wine Shop

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Baden, and in particular the pretty range of hills known as the Kaiserstuhl (Emperor's chair), is the traditional seat of German Pinot Noir production. Holger Kochs small 8.5 hectare estate lies at its heart. Growing up, he was ambivalent about making wine a career, but under some parental pressure did apprenticeships at estates in Baden, and four years of studies at Geisenheim. But he really fell in love with wine in Bordeaux, under the tutelage of Stefan Neipperg at Canon La Gaffeliere, who opened his eyes to its thrilling possibilities. Four years running the famous Franz Keller Schwarzer Adler estate in Baden distilled his experiences into the aspiration to make pure, uncompromising, terroir-driven wines. And so he does. He took over the family vineyards in 1999, and within five years had replanted half of them with proper clones; now 80% of the estate has been replanted. Its heart is the Herrenstuck, with loess soils on volcanic bedrock, which produces cool, balanced reds and whites of great finesse. Always searching to improve quality, he is carefully experimenting with whole-cluster fermentation, skin contact for whites, and the use of new oak, but never at the expense of elegance.

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Good to know:

*Baden produces two different styles of wines, due to its geographical location and climatic conditions. The Northern part lies close to the borders of Franken and the Southern part is closer to the Bodensee. Baden produces the best Burgundian varieties of Germany, Spätburgunder (PN), Grauburgunder (PG) and Weissburgunder (PB), but they produce many other biodynamic wine varieties in the region, from Blaufränkish to Syrah, from sweet Muscats to Souvignier Gris.

*Baden is the land of the cooperative, but Holger Koch is an independent producer. This wine is organic.

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Vocabulary:

Gutsabfüllung: bottle estate.

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